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This page provides a literature overview on articles about interesting topics of cosmetics and dermatology which have been published in specialist journals. The articles deal with skin analysis, active agents as well as details on the composition and use of cosmetic and dermatics. Also medical issues like problem skin, skin barrier and cornification disorders are covered. Please select on the left. The publications are available in full text and can be downloaded as pdf-files.

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Microorganisms - in and around our body
problem skin
The daily struggle against microorganisms goes on but the fact is that we can't do without them. Their busy and invisible work for our well-being passes unnoticeable however their bad behaviour provides headlines, stress and high body temperature. There is talk of bacteria yeasts and fungi.
more...
Anti-pollution cosmetics
skin protection
Stricter laws have led to a drop of environmental pollution in Germany in the past decades. By the same token, the individual sensitivity to harmful environmental influences has been on the increase. Besides the products for skin protection, also "detox" cosmetics have become established today. An...
more...
Advantages of products without water and cosmetic additives
products
Water is an essential substance to maintain skin hydration and elasticity. However, there are also water-free products on the market. Why is that? When are they used and what are the benefits?
more...
Sterile packaging - products and methods
ingredients
There is one thing in common with food and skin care preparations: both are perishables. This is why sterile conditions are required for manufacturing, storage and application. Preservatives are just one of the options to ensure sterility.
more...
Anti-aging treatments - are they still available without cosmetic devices?
beauty institutes
Using modern skin care devices in cosmetic institutes becomes more and more popular, above all if it is a matter of anti-aging treatments. Frequently the clients ask for visible results and book skin care treatments with cosmetic devices.
more...
Modular cosmetics
base creams
Modular cosmetic products help beauty institutes earn points with their customers. Certain basic conditions should be observed when using modular cosmetics. Dr. Hans Lautenschläger explains the parameters.
more...
Anti-irritant agents
special actives
The tolerance of cosmetic preparations is an ongoing issue - among consumers as well as among manufacturers. Skin condition, subjective feeling and the objective properties of substances play a role in this context.
more...
Chain reaction - skin enzymes and enzyme defects
problem skin
The human metabolism is a finely tuned system operated and maintained in balance by various chemical reactions. Enzymes are the facilitators that catalyse the individual reactions. Defects and mutations cause dysregulations which also have consequences for the skin.
more...
Skin and body odours
beauty institutes
Our body odour surrounds us like an aura. It contributes to whether we feel an instant attraction or dislike for another person.
more...
Unwanted adverse effects
beauty institutes
When cosmetic products trigger allergies and intolerances often the ingredients are the troublemakers. Frequently overlooked are essential (co-)factors such as the individual skin constitution, random exogenous impacts, inappropriate preparations, too much or too many skin care products and, last...
more...
Skin structure and skin care requirements - From past to future
skin diagnosis
For a long time in human cultural development, cosmetics and medicine had been considered as one discipline. About 150 years ago, with the onset of industrialisation, the influence of natural science and the identification, isolation and big scale production of chemicals and ingredients, the...
more...
Flavones and isoflavones - the all-rounders among active agents
special actives
With their broad range of applications multifunctional active agents are particularly interesting for skin care. Besides vitamins, polyphenols have a large potential. Their most prominent representatives are flavones and isoflavones.
more...
Contact dermatoses - causes, prevention and professional care of irritated skin
problem skin
Contact dermatoses occur at the workplace but also during leisure time. What people tend to call allergy actually more often turns out to be an irritation. Prevalence varies and depends on a multitude of different factors. If the persons concerned know about preventive measures and how to apply them...
more...
Sound base - pharmaceutical and cosmetic base creams
base creams
The treatment of medical indications and cosmetic skin problems depends on how diagnosis and skin analysis are translated into an adequate therapy with appropriate preparations. Beneficial here are base creams that allow extemporaneous preparations.
more...
Keep your eyes open - eye problem assistance
products
Sleepy eyes are hardly attractive, the more so as reduced lacrimation and an increased dehydration of the surrounding skin areas often are accompanying symptoms. Which cosmetic products are beneficial in this case?
more...
Antimicrobial peptides
special actives
Acids and barrier lipids of the stratum corneum (horny layer) are the skin's first line of defence against infections. However, they also are the basis for a typical microbial colonisation (skin flora). The skin flora contains harmless but also facultative pathogenic germs. Peptide structures...
more...
Triclosan - partial ban, widely used
ingredients
The antimicrobial chemical used as a preservative in cosmetic products has been criticized for a long time already. Our expert explains why and gives an update on the current legal situation.
more...
So small and subtle - nanoparticles from solid to liquid
special actives
The ingredients of nanodispersions can partly replace pharmaceutical active agents - often with the same efficiency.1 Hence they are ideal base substances for cosmeceuticals.2 
more...
Saponins in skin care
special actives
Saponins are one of the most diversified substance classes in nature. Quite a number of saponins already have a long tradition of practical application and are well-known from folk medicine. The following article covers the different structures and effects of saponins.
more...
Antioxidants and radical scavengers - too much is too much
special actives
Antioxidants and radical scavengers belong to the most common components of anti-aging preparations. The trend towards appropriate food supplements and cosmeceuticals still continues.
more...
Cosmetic studies
products
The trend in cosmetics goes towards highly effective active agents. Since the Cosmetic Directive demands for safe cosmetic preparations that are free of adverse effects, there is need for comprehensive quality control and validation of the products. A selection of quality control procedures is...
more...
Bioengineering of the skin - combo makes the difference
beauty institutes
More and more beauty institutes use devices and equipment to optimize their skin care treatments. It also is a fact that most of the device-assisted techniques are inconceivable without the appropriate preparations.
more...
Aluminium - a much-discussed element1
ingredients
For some time past there has been much discussion on aluminium containing antiperspirants and deodorants. Many of us are not aware that aluminium also is a component of hygiene products and many other cosmetic preparations and that it is ubiquitous in our environment - literally wherever we go.
more...
Retinoids and their use in cosmetics
special actives
Although already veterans among the cosmetic active agents they are the number one active agents among the cosmeceuticals: retinoids. This naturally occurring substance class is omnipresent in our daily skin care, our medical drugs and our daily nutrition.
more...
Perioral dermatitis - causes, treatment and differentiation
problem skin
Perioral dermatitis is a common problem, but the solution is not easy to find. Associated irritations are rather persistent and definitely an ordeal for the persons affected but also for cosmeticians.
more...
Cosmetic preparations with specific attributes
products
Although we live in a high-tech environment, the tendency towards spiritual thinking still is firmly established in human reasoning. The so released forces are apparent every day - just consider the global conflicts around religion and religious faith.
more...
Frankincense - the resin with healing power
special actives
Frankincense ("Boswellia") has become rather important in various cultures and religions: the resilience of the tree growing in the Asian and African semi deserts is legendary and the tribal knowledge on the mystic and healing powers of its resin fills entire libraries. Today's science still...
more...
Eight questions on sun protection
skin protection
"What kind of sun cream would you recommend for me?" and "What is important when purchasing sun creams?" Your customers probably often ask such kind of questions during summer season. We have interviewed Dr Hans Lautenschläger on the effects and the ingredients of sun creams. So you are prepared for...
more...
Asking the expert: Any potent active agents to treat excessive sweating?
special actives
Persons with hyperhidrosis certainly have already tested the one or other active agent. We interviewed Dr. Hans Lautenschläger on profuse sweating, on potential natural compounds and the pros and cons of aluminium free deodorants.
more...
Approved skin lightener - tranexamic acid is effective against pigmented spots and redness
special actives
In the medical field, tranexamic acid is a reliable haemostatic agent during surgery and in the case of accidental injuries. In medical cosmetics, tranexamic acid is used for skin treatments: already small amounts can bleach pigmented spots and reduce redness - also in combination with...
more...
Acne - the potentials of cosmetic prevention
problem skin
Acne does not only appear during adolescence but can also be constant companion of adults. Cosmetic preparations can help in getting a grip on it.
more...
Overdoing skin care - too much of a good thing
problem skin
Do you know the typical disease of female flight attendants? Well, it's a rash that develops due to exaggerated skin care! The protective shell of the body suffers with insufficient skin care but obviously also with too much skin care.
more...
Skin care before and after surgery
problem skin
Adjuvant skin care plays a significant role in the context of aesthetic surgery. Adequately administered it helps accelerate the recovery process, discontinue pharmaceutical medication at an earlier stage and has a lasting positive effect on the surgery results.
more...
Don't take risks! - Skin protection in beauty institutes
skin protection
Manual work, mechanical strain and the contact with various substances: if these characteristics are typical for your workplace, you are more likely to suffer from skin reactions and dermatoses. Protect yourself!
more...
Lip care insights - well-tried and new lip care tips
products
Soft, smooth and glossy: healthy lips are quite attractive. That is why wax and pigment containing preparations and sticks have become an integral part of the cosmetic skin care routine. Some of the lip care preparations have hardly changed over time, which is quite amazing, while others have been...
more...
Alkaloids in cosmetic applications
special actives
Hot and spicy, reviving or even intoxicating - we are talking of alkaloids. If you now think of nicotine, caffeine or cocaine in this context, you are quite right. However, the family of alkaloids is more diverse and also makes a significant component in skin care preparations.
more...
Vitamins in cosmetics
special actives
While many other cosmetic active agents experience their ups and downs, vitamins continue to be in vogue. They are essential components of natural and of physiological cosmetics.
more...
Flawless skin - active agents and active agent systems
special actives
A radiant complexion is the beauty ideal per se. Light or dark spots are annoying and can be quite a nuisance if they are well-marked. The cosmetic sector offers a large variety of active agents to take remedial action.
more...
Waxes - an indispensable family
ingredients
What comes into your mind when you hear the term waxes? Maybe beeswax, candle wax or floor wax? It may not sound familiar in a cosmetic context but waxes are more common in cosmetics than you might think.
more...
All made of sugar - Glycosides in skin care products
special actives
What does a lump of sugar have in common with hyaluronic acid, algae extract or the so-called AGE deposits in atrophic skin? They all belong to the family of glycosides - a substance class that can be found in a whole variety of cosmetic preparations.
more...
Highly effective - Cosmeceuticals
products
When can we or should we speak of cosmeceuticals or to put it another way, cosmetic ingredients with pharmaceutical effects? Cosmetologists and lawyers assiduously discuss the matter. Read more on the respective criteria and on the substances and applications that act as the model for...
more...
Phospholipids - the all-rounders
special actives
What does an element like phosphorus that rather is associated with the match industry have to do with skin and cosmetics? As a matter of fact, most of the processes in which the substance is involved take place without becoming aware of them. It is not exaggerating to say that phosphorus and...
more...
Vitamins in cosmetic products - just additives or added benefit as well?
special actives
Vitamins belong to the most frequent components in cosmetic products. With their positive image they always are useful for marketing purposes - even when added to a rinse-off product where they will not remain on the skin. By the same token, specific vitamin-containing products are beneficial in the...
more...
Careful with washing! - Gentle skin care for babies and small children
problem skin
The epidermis of children up to 3 years is relatively thin, shows minimal sweat and sebum production, has an increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and is sensitive. Recommendations for the care of the infant skin are compiled in the following article.
more...
Sun protection products - appropriate use
products
More and more day care creams are equipped with UV filters. While the production of sun filters skyrockets therewith, the endocrinal efficacy of some filters is being disussed by experts. Information on the state of the art and the most efficient way of protecting against sun radiation is compiled...
more...
Facets of intimate care - less is more
products
Intimate care always has been and will continue to be a domain of women. Obviously there is a solution for any kind of problem. However not all the products offered on the cosmetic market will automatically contribute to the individual wellbeing.
more...
The water balance in our skin: moisturizers & Co.
special actives
The term moisturizing cream has different meanings according to whether we are in the English-speaking world or the German-speaking part. Two terms are essential in this context: moisturizers and emollients. Information on common features and on the way how they influence the water balance of the...
more...
Extinguishing the flames - anti-inflammatory active agents
special actives
If we speak of anti-inflammatory active agents in the cosmetic field, we predominantly deal with a prevention of local irritations caused by contact with everyday substances, micro-organisms or by mechanical stress or micro lesions. Accordingly, it is not a matter of a therapeutic use of active...
more...
Skin care at strong sweat formation*
problem skin
Sweat glands are high-performance glands. They become active when the body's surface temperature needs to be cooled down, or in other words, whenever the body temperature rises and the temperature has to be dissipated quickly, or if the heat dissipation of the body is not sufficiently ensured in the...
more...
Repairing the barrier - on active agents and active agent systems to support the skin regeneration
problem skin
For a long time, the term skin regeneration has been used with reserve only since it insinuates a healing effect that legally is not allowed for advertising purposes. In the final analysis, the term "regeneration" originates from medicine and resumes, in a nutshell, the regenerating cell biological...
more...
Shave that beard! - Skin care before and after shavings
products
There are many ways to get rid of unwanted hair on various parts of the body. How does the skin react to the different techniques? What can be done to avoid or sooth irritations?
more...
Skin whitening agents from A to Z - a summary
special actives
When you cut an apple and leave it uncovered, it will quickly turn brown. This brown colouring originates from the oxidation of the polyphenols of the apple with atmospheric oxygen assisted by the enzyme phenoloxidase. Lemon juice with its high content of antioxidant vitamin C can impede this...
more...
Antioxidants - an overview
special actives
During the past years, no other active agent class has attracted more attention as a cosmetic ingredient than the group of antioxidants with their radical scavenging properties. Now it is time to draw the balance and compile an orientation guide as to the large variety of active agents.
more...
Biodegradable lamellar systems in skin care, skin protection and dermatology
special actives
ABSTRACT: The following review comprises background, literature and applications of biodegradable lamellar systems, their characteristics and limitations. The article is focussed on phosphatidylcholine containing preparations like liposomes, nanodispersions and derma membrane structure.
more...
Protecting the skin barrier - fungal infections and skin care
problem skin
Pharmacy offers a multitude of highly efficient active agents for the treatment of fungal infections. Experience however has shown that without appropriate skin care the symptoms soon reappear after the antimycotic medication has been stopped.
more...
Summary: Release and bioavailability
ingredients
A key issue considering the efficacy of skin care products is the release of the active agents contained. In this respect, not only the concentrations but also the base formulations of creams, dispersions and solutions play an important part. The subsequent penetration into the horny layer depot,...
more...
Shady sides - manifestations of light dermatoses
problem skin
Besides the well-known sun burns, sunlight also can trigger very annoying light dermatoses. Food, pharmaceuticals and cosmetic ingredients are potential influencing factors. Sometimes even preventive measures and medicine are of little help, all the more important is an adequate skin care.
more...
Let it grow again - on actives and active systems to stimulate hair growth
special actives
Beautiful hair is considered as an expression of vitality. Yet, what can be done if a hormone-related hair loss strikes at an early age already? Since ages people have used tricks and tinctures to reactivate its growth - to no avail though. Now, there are new findings that may raise hope.
more...
Stratum corneum - from corneobiochemistry to corneotherapy
base creams
The epidermis is a dynamic system of continuous proliferation and differentiation. It mainly consists of keratinocytes, melanocytes and immune-competent cells. The stratum corneum, the uppermost layer of the epidermis is of major significance for the barrier function of the skin. The barrier is...
more...
Piggyback - an overview on transport systems
ingredients
Speaking of transport systems for cosmetic active agents, we automatically think of tiny filled spherical bodies that wriggle their way through the gaps between the corneocytes and then empty their load in the deeper layer of the epidermis. That is a good story though, but unfortunately not a true...
more...
A focus on nerves - on intended and adverse effects
special actives
In our private and professional life, we come across quite a few things that literally get on our nerves and also under our skin in the true sense of the word. We feel how we break into perspiration, how we blush or turn pale. Also cosmetic products have an effect on our nerves.
more...
Elastase - the target of a novel anti-aging strategy to defy skin aging, loss of skin elasticity and wrinkle formation
anti-aging
In the skin, the epidermal stem cells are responsible for the formation and regeneration of all the different cells in the epidermis. Since the skin progressively differentiates and regenerates, the epidermal stem cells are the most important skin cells in charge of the epidermal homeostasis, of the...
more...
No crinkle-look - an arsenal of anti-wrinkle agents at choice
special actives
There may be regrets though that those characteristic faces furrowed with wrinkles and deep lines are less common today. However, media and commercials talk us into a concept of beauty that lays emphasis on smooth skin. What can you do to preserve the skin smooth and supple?
more...
Landing approach - preparing for the final descent - skincare for pregnant women
problem skin
When the stork has announced his arrival, the furnishing of the apartment, the daily routine and the baby equipment need to be organized. Also the skin care should be adapted to the new situation.
more...
Skin - from the outside in
problem skin
Keeping the skin's barrier in good health could be the key to optimal skincare according to the team at dermaviduals. Lizzy Wood reports.
more...
Food intolerance - when food irritates the skin
problem skin
Itching skin or skin rash - who would think that the daily diet can trigger the symptoms? Not only the substances that get in contact with the skin but also orally ingested substances may cause skin reactions. What can be done?
more...
Treatment of problem skins - an overview
problem skin
If you start out to renovate a building you should begin with the roof. In terms of the problem skin, first priority should be given to the skin barrier. Next step then is the renovation or in other words the recovery of the skin. Which active agents are appropriate in this case? The following...
more...
Skin care during cancer therapy
problem skin
When customers undergo cancer treatment also the skin condition is affected. Problems and side effects of cancer therapies can be attenuated with an adequate skin care.
more...
Powders, gels, creams & sticks - Routes of administration
products
Cosmetic products often have rather imaginative names and sometimes even propose riddles to the consumers. In other words, a so-called gel may prove to be no gel at all in the technological sense of the term. The main characteristics of the different routes of administration are described in the...
more...
Growth factors - the body's own peptides control various cell functions
special actives
Peptides have become a topic of intense biochemical research since they control a multitude of regulatory functions in the body. Also the growth factors are an object of research since they regulate the development of young organisms and initiate repair mechanisms and healing processes in the later...
more...
Corneotherapy
problem skin
The future of skincare has arrived.
more...
Skin care for the vitiligo-affected skin - aspirations and reality
problem skin
Vitiligo is a rather conspicuous skin disease since the respective skin areas have completely lost their pigmentation. Although, the causes of the disease still are largely unidentified, there is help available for the patients concerned in the form of adequate skin care products and active agents.
more...
Without carriers only modest effects - Functions and effects of carriers in cosmetic products
ingredients
When we talk about carriers in cosmetic products we need to distinguish between particular chemically defined substances and physical carrier bodies. In conclusion, both alternatives have the same effects: combined with active agents they increase the bioavailability. An enhanced bioavailability...
more...
Jars, tubes, dispensers etc - cosmetic packaging
products
The packaging of skin care products serves for product protection but also is intended to persuade people to buy. What particular functions and requirements are important for the packaging of cosmetic products?
more...
Vitamins in cosmetics
special actives
While many other cosmetic active agents experience their ups and downs, vitamins continue to be in vogue. They are essential components of natural and of physiological cosmetics.
more...
Benchmark skin measurements - a solid evidence
skin diagnosis
Measuring the skin before and after the treatment is a popular method to awaken consumer desire for skin care products. Also cosmeticians can convince their customers with facts and figures.
more...
Trace elements - tiny helpers for a healthy life
special actives
They only occur in minute amounts in the human body. Nevertheless, a decline in trace element concentration causes severe deficiency symptoms. Read more about their function, effects and their significance in the cosmetic field in the following.
more...
Nanoparticles - sizing up skin care
special actives
I recently read an interesting article, passed to me by my Australian colleagues. It's a long way from Germany to Australia but the issues raised in the article "I'm as Mad as Hell....." by Danné, published in the Nov/Dec 2010 issue of Professional Beauty, resonated with me so strongly I felt...
more...
Little powerhouses - what hand creams should accomplish
products
The daily work takes its toll on our hands - especially through contact with specific substances. And, the efficacy of hand creams varies a lot - it all depends on the particular formulation.
more...
Moisturizers for the skin care
special actives
The term moisturizer generally stands for moisturizing creams. The present overview will inform on components that influence the skin hydration.
more...
Cellulite from A to Z
problem skin
Exceptions prove the rule: the vast majority of women will develop cellulite some time in their life. The treatment of the annoying indentations has grown into a profitable branch of business within cosmetics. There are lots of promises but reality frequently is different. The following overview...
more...
Gentle products for soothing massages
products
Wellness and cosmetic treatments - both are unimaginable without massages! The customer longs for relaxation and expects the promised results. Professional competence is required here - and the appropriate media in form of creams, oils and gels.
more...
Layer per layer - the structure of the skin
skin diagnosis
The skin is a complicated and highly efficient organ which protects our body and adds to its attractiveness. It is also barrier and intermediate station for outgoing and incoming substances. In general, we are not aware of what it can actually achieve. If the functions of the skin are impaired,...
more...
Silicon - the global player in cosmetics
ingredients
As a cosmetic agent, the element silicon plays a wallflower role: only at the first glance, though. As a matter of fact, the semi-metal is insignificant as an active agent. However, organic silicon additives and inorganic silicates are widely used in cosmetic products.
more...
A comparison - pharmaceutical and cosmetic active agents
special actives
Medical drugs or cosmetics? Once the cosmetician realizes, that a skin condition demands more professional competency than she can provide in her institute, she recommends visiting a dermatologist. We compare pharmaceutical and cosmetic active agents.
more...
On substances that release emotions - a tour across the world of perfumes
ingredients
Scents and fragrances are part of our daily life to the point that we often have become oblivious of them. But we unknowingly react to them. Tiny chemical molecules signalize messages with major psychological effects.
more...
From soap to high-tech emulsifiers
ingredients
There are two basic needs that are as old as mankind - hygiene and skin care. Both of them deal with the transport of lipid substances. In order to work most effectively while being gentle on the skin, modern cosmetic products make use of powerful tensides and emulsifiers. Recent emulsifying systems...
more...
Radio waves and boswellia nanoparticles - a new derma rejuvenation therapy
anti-aging
Considerations on skin physiology and skin aging from the biochemical point of view
more...
Sensitive skin - identifying symptoms and causes
skin diagnosis
Besides the fact that simple causes often have major consequences for the skin, cosmetic practices are also confronted with complex issues when it comes to sensitive skin. Identifying the complex problem is a major prerequisite for a causal and successful cosmetic treatment.
more...
Acids and bases from A to Z
ingredients
Acids somehow have a spectacular image in skin care. They either have caustic effects in the true sense of the word or they are the magic cure for a beautiful skin per se. Bases, as their counterparts, only live a wallflower existence as neutralizers. Details and backgrounds are covered in the...
more...
Crossing borders - on the boundaries of cosmetic skin care
problem skin
There is only a smooth transition from problem skin to pathological skin conditions. Although it is not the job of professional cosmeticians to diagnose skin diseases, it is essential to know the borderlines. Otherwise there is a risk of getting into conflict with health legislation.
more...
Corneotherapeutic skin care for the rosacea skin
problem skin
Rosacea predominantly affects fair-skinned people and develops in adult age. Characteristic symptoms are erythema, changes of the superficial blood vessels and connective tissue as well as enlarged sebum follicles. Frequently there are also oedema and pustules to observe. In addition, there is a...
more...
Ubiquitous like sand on the beaches: silicon and its compounds
ingredients
As a cosmetic agent, silicon plays a wallflower role. Only at the first glance, though: its salts and organic compounds are used in many applications, as e.g. masks, packs or hair care products.
more...
Eye care basics - on active agents and eye formulations
anti-aging
Besides language and gestures also our eyes play a significant role in communication. Expressive eyes can be the decisive factor in determining sympathy and appeal. That is why the preventive cosmetic care of the eye area is of particular importance.
more...
Using synergies - How active agents and cream bases interlink cosmetics and pharmacy
base creams
No doubt - the grey area between pharmaceutical and cosmetic skin care products is expanding. Dermaceuticals and dermocosmetics are keywords which demonstrate that the cosmetic product market is gaining grounds in the pharmaceutical field, not least because of legal claims for a proof of efficiency
more...
Fragrance sample? Aldehydes and ketones
ingredients
Formaldehyde and acetone are immediately associated with nail hardeners and nail enamel remover. In chemical terms, these substances belong to the substance class of aldehydes and ketones - which are well-known molecules in cosmetic products like e.g. preservatives, perfumes or essential oils.
more...
Sun protection: on the efficiency of UV filters
skin protection
Whenever the skin is exposed to bright sunlight, the natural protective mechanisms of the skin will no longer be sufficient. Sun protection creams are inevitable in order to protect the skin against the negative effects of UV radiation. How do the UV filters in sun protection creams work and how...
more...
Fragrances, vitamins and hormones - the ABC of terpenes
special actives
They are a main component of natural essential oils - terpenes. The chemical compounds are primarily used as aromatic or flavoring substances in perfumes and cosmetics. Yet, they are also major intermediate products of the human metabolism.
more...
From biochemistry - the ABC of steroids
special actives
Steroids can be found in food and skin care products, in pharmaceutical drugs and last but not least even in our own body. They have effects on heart and blood circulation, fat metabolism, sexuality and skin condition.
more...
Versatile use - alcohols in skin care products
ingredients
What do you understand by the term alcohol or alcohols? What are the functions associated with it? Imagining cosmetic products without this substance class is almost impossible, except for powders.
more...
The ABC of fatty acids
special actives
We come into contact with fatty acids day in, day out as they are elements of our daily nutrition and skin care. Already the syllable „fat" reminds us of calories and even more disagreeable is the idea of something like "acids". Fatty acids have more influence on our health than we generally assume,...
more...
Denatured!!? - Use pure alcohol!
ingredients
Legislative authorities suspiciously regulate and survey the use of alcohol, even in cosmetic products. Both quality and safety of skin care products do not benefit from this policy.
more...
Hormone cycles - menopause skin care
problem skin
We cannot live without hormones. They influence our bodily functions, physical capacity and moods from birth to old age. We are particularly sensible of their effect during menopause.
more...
Enhanced skin structure through innovative anti-aging treatment with Intense Pulsed Light (IPL) and boswellia nanoparticles
anti-aging
[IPL-activated boswellia-(frankincense-)Triterpenes]
more...
Denaturants in cosmetic products - health is secondary
ingredients
Concerning the ingredients of cosmetic products their purity is essential. The fact that the products may also contain additives that are mandatory, have nothing to do with skin care and may even cause counterproductive effects is discussed in the following paper.
more...
Skin care for the adolescent skin
problem skin
During adolescence teenagers increasingly pay attention to their outer appearance and frequently take a look in the mirror. Blemished skin often becomes a problem. Acne, perspiration etc. wreck their nerves. What can be done when the skin goes haywire, particularly at this time when everyone is...
more...
Skin care for psoriasis skin - individually adapted
problem skin
Every problem skin requires a skin care which is optimally adapted to the individual patient, particularly during non-acute conditions or periods free of complaints. Preventive care may help reduce the stress for psoriasis- affected persons.
more...
Laser- & IPL treatments - the appropriate skin care
anti-aging
The use of lasers in the cosmetic and dermatological treatment has become increasingly popular in recent years. Experience has shown that preparative steps before the treatment and an adequate follow-up care are of vital importance in order to achieve optimal results.
more...
(Poly)Saccharides in cosmetic products - From alginate to xanthan gum
ingredients
Polysaccharides are omnipresent ingredients of cosmetics. They do an absolutely reliable job in silence and far away from the all-too-fleeting active agents and that is why we are no longer aware of them. How important they really are and where they are actually used is explained in the following...
more...
Mechanical, chemical, enzymatic - peelings for every type of skin
products
No matter whether salt, sand or acid based: peelings are used to stimulate the skin recovery and to restore a youthful appearance. The cosmetician today has various techniques at her disposal to achieve these goals.
more...
Omnipresent and multifunctional - amino acids in skin care
special actives
Amino acids are indispensable from the vegetable and animal kingdom including men through to microorganisms like bacteria, fungi and viruses. There is no life on earth without these basic elements. Why and which specific amino acids are vital for the human skin is described in the following.
more...
Nanoparticles in cosmetic products - good or bad?
special actives
New developments create anxieties and raise questions. First and foremost because it lacks information and experience. Frequently hearsay is the only source of information available. Nanoparticles are not the same kind of quantum leap as the first steam locomotives were, though. The following...
more...
"I cannot tolerate this product" - the influence of medical drugs on skin and skin care
problem skin
Again and again beauty institutes and practices are confronted with spontaneous or chronic skin reactions. As a rule, the skin care used is then suspected to be the culprit. Frequently it is wrongly accused, as there are various other factors that play a significant role - as for instance medical...
more...
Polyethylene glycols & Co - On effects and side effects
ingredients
Besides water and oils hardly any other substance group is as widely used in skin care products and dermatics as polyethylene glycols and their related substances. Interesting things to know are compiled in the following article.
more...
Vegetable oils
ingredients
Vegetable oils are the oldest known skin care products. Yet they are important as ever. Find out more about the manifold and interesting features of this substance group in the following.
more...
Let's have a look at your feet... Well-cared feet walk better!
products
Pedicure tends to be neglected in young age. Wrongfully - since preventive care is a significant factor to be a good walker also in later years. The following survey describes which specific products and what kind of treatment play a role in this context.
more...
Delicate children skin - criteria for the adequate skin care
problem skin
Cosmetic products usually are developed for adults. Thus customers often are not sure which product may be used for children or baby skin. Not every product is appropriate - specifically if it contains substances that are inadequate or overdosed for children skin.
more...
Ultrasound gels - effects, compositions, applications
products
Ultrasound applications have found their way into the standard repertoire of cosmetic treatments. What is the role of ultrasound gels in this context?
more...
Beauty products for men - which products are useful?
products
Advertising campaigns for men's cosmetics have now come to fruition - the market already expects a double-digit growth rate. In the following find out more about the beauty products HE really needs.
more...
Stressed skin - itching & Co. - causes and remedies
problem skin
Rather unpleasant phenomenon: unbearable itching combined with erythema. Whether it is an insect bite or nettle rash after the contact with certain plants, the urge to scratch is specifically unpleasant at night times, and in public it even implies poor hygienic conditions and parasites....
more...
Lasting effect? Tendencies in anti-aging treatments
anti-aging
Wrinkles - now customers can well do without these and that is the reason why they willingly buy the promoted anti-aging skin care products on the market. Aim of these products however should be the effective prevention of the skin aging process. According to Dr. Hans Lautenschläger empty words or...
more...
Skin reactions - cosmetics and their effects
problem skin
The ingredients of skin care products may cause inflammatory processes in the skin under certain conditions. On the other hand there are also cosmetic components which may effectively impede inflammatory processes. In the following survey the contrary ingredients are exemplarily compared with each...
more...
Hyaluronic acid - a legendary agent
special actives
Hyaluronic acid is a legendary agent in the true sense of the word and it is almost impossible to imagine basic skin care and the treatment of wrinkles and dry eye syndrome without it. However where there is light there is also shadow and more and more treatment procedures with hyaluronic acid...
more...
Scars - cosmetic prevention and skin care
problem skin
Scars are a frequent topic in beauty institutes. So far cosmetic only has focused on decorative and concealing products. However, recently developed new agents and bases have considerably improved cosmetic treatment methods.
more...
Skin care during radiotherapy - soothing, vitalizing and protecting
problem skin
Cancer therapies usually involve quite negative side effects and radiotherapy affects the skin in both ways: from the outside when it was used as a passageway for radiation and from the inside when the skin reacts to scattered radiation. How can skin care measures contribute to minimize the negative...
more...
Eye care products - ingredients and effects
products
Our eyes are like business cards for our internal frame of mind. Sadness, happiness, curiosity and almost every personal feeling can be read in our eyes and hence is communicated to our fellow human beings. Reasons enough to pay special care to our eyes and the eye area. This will keep them in...
more...
Fats and oils in cosmetics - Mother Nature versus petrochemicals?   (long version)
skin protection
Fats and oils are important ingredients of skin care. The properties of hydrocarbons and silicones are compared with vegetable and synthetic triglycerides. The influences on skin recovery and long term effects are described. The present literature is reviewed from the physiological point of view.
more...
Skin elasticity - what can cosmetics achieve?
problem skin
To keep the skin smooth and free of wrinkles for as long as possible is the main objective of preventive skin care. Besides hydration and smoothing, skin elasticity is the other essential factor where all depends on. Based on selected examples the following article explains potential influences on...
more...
Dazzlingly beautiful lips: lip care - ingredients and effects
products
Lips and eyes communicate charisma and charm and that is the reason why particular attention is paid to their care. Since the characteristics of the lip area are inherently different from the other facial skin we also use specific care products. What are the ingredients and how do they work?
more...
Oils and fats in cosmetic products - Mother Nature contra petrochemical industry?
skin protection
A subject that has launched controversial discussions over and over again is the use of mineral oil based hydrocarbons in cosmetic products. Above all in the cold season it gains importance as the skin is sensitive to cold and dry air and should therefore be protected with re-fattening substances....
more...
Dermopharmacy - decorative cosmetics for problem skin
problem skin
Decorative cosmetics still leads a shadowy existence in many pharmacies. Wrongfully - as it is desperately needed specifically in the problem skin area in order to reduce the psychological strain of the individuals concerned. The following article describes preparations which form a valuable...
more...
Shelf life of cosmetics - what makes cosmetic products unstable?
ingredients
Cosmetic products have a life of their own, all the more the higher the content of physiologically usable skin care substances. Also external influences have to be considered specifically when the products are bottled in jars. In the end, a mix of different influences determines the shelf life of...
more...
Self-tanning products - a beautiful sun-tan without sun
products
While fair skin is the ideal of beauty in many countries of the world, the average central-European population rather prefers a tanned complexion. It stands for the idea of a healthy and active life style. As UV radiation however is related to the well-known consequences like premature skin aging...
more...
Skin diagnosis - based on measuring results
skin diagnosis
The precise diagnosis of the skin condition is essential for a successful cosmetic treatment as even the best product will be useless if it is not matched with the skin type of the customer.
more...
Medical Wellness - a powerful combination
anti-aging
Cosmetics - medicine - wellness: an increasing number of intersections and overlappings can be noticed between these disciplines. Cosmetics is spreading its activities into the boundaries of medicine. The field of "medical wellness" fills the gap between medicine and wellness and often has its roots...
more...
Peptides - more than transmitters and hormones
special actives
Peptides play a major role in the development of anti aging cosmetics. They occur naturally and are quite often found as messenger proteins and hormones. Also their degradation products, i.e. the amino acids are key players in the field of cosmetic skin care.
more...
Applied corneotherapy and skin care - guidelines for the anti-aging treatment
anti-aging
Based on the corneotherapeutic treatment founded by Prof. A. Kligman a detailed strategy against premature skin aging is discussed. Specific elements of this strategy are the preservation of the NMF (moisture balance, protection against radicals) as well as the barrier layers, the protection against...
more...
Vegetable oils and extracts - essential components
ingredients
The use of oils and extracts for basic skin care purposes already has a long tradition and still retains its relevance today. Frequently singular substances with defined effect can successfully be isolated, very often however this specific effect is closely related to the extract or respectively the...
more...
Quite a lot of different applications - new oils and extracts
ingredients
An unprecedented number of new oils and extracts is currently introduced into the cosmetic market. To provide some assistance here, Dr. Hans Lautenschlaeger presents an overview on promising substances and their effects.
more...
Innovative powder products - from urea powder to wrinkle killers
products
Powders are an essential component of the decorative skin care. In the course of time their composition has changed considerably and besides their application on normal skin, they are also used on problem skin today as well as for the optical reduction of wrinkles. More details are given in the...
more...
Couperosis - a field for active agent concentrates
problem skin
Couperosis - a complicated cosmetic topic: quite a few questions regarding its origin and treatment are still waiting for an answer. Just like other problem skins also couperosis demands for a thoroughly balanced skin care. Particularly in the field of supporting prevention skin care plays a...
more...
Liposomes
special actives
INTRODUCTION: Publications about and patents on liposomes, along with their different chemical components, preparation, and use in skincare products have often been reviewed [1-4]. The reviews do not need any additional comments. Of interest are general questions, such as why liposomes should be...
more...
Precious load - transport of active agents
special actives
Within the field of skin care and dermatology active agents play the most important role. Appropriate transport systems ensure that active agents are transported to the areas where they are really needed.
more...
Good looks, protection and skin care all inclusive: make-up for the problem skin
problem skin
Make-up literally is cosmetics in the true sense of the word - it enhances the individual appearance. And from time immemorial a multitude of different pigments, dyes and mineral components has been used for this purpose. Protecting and maintaining a healthy skin however has rather been regarded as...
more...
Nitrosamines in cosmetic products - risk of skin problems?
skin protection
For quite some time now print media and radio stations have been informing that a multitude of cosmetic products contain carcinogenic nitrosamines. The reports are based on random sample results of some State Health Agencies in Germany. The point here is whether an already known problem has now...
more...
A closer look on natural agents: facts and future aspects
ingredients
Natural agents have always been a topical issue and also the object of vigorous advertising campaigns. The general public certainly associates the terms natural and biological with purity, harmlessness and good tolerance. However, not every product labeled with the term natural also contains pure...
more...
All-purpose talcum free powder bases with urea
products
All-purpose powder bases for use in decorative cosmetics, skin care and dermatology are described. Besides covering compounds, such as mineral pigments and physiologically compatible amides, urea plays a major role, particularly in use of powder bases on problem skin.
more...
Eye care - new agents against wrinkles
products
The sensitive eye area demands for an excellent base care and well tolerable actives to balance out fine lines, dark circles below the eyes and weakening elasticity.
more...
Membrane-containing barrier creams - protecting the skin with skin-related substances
skin protection
Skin care products should primarily support the protective function of the stratum corneum and, if needed, also assist in the recovery process. Accordingly these products should be called barrier creams; however this technical term rather is used in combination with skin protective products. The...
more...
Photodamaged skin: sun-bathing and after sun care
problem skin
Overexposure to UV radiation causes serious long-term skin damage, premature skin aging and may even trigger skin cancer. Even if the infrared light of the sun seems harmless though, it may build up extremely high temperatures in the outermost skin layers and as a consequence also lead to premature...
more...
"Acne caused by too many different moisturizing factors in creams?"
problem skin
more...
Radical scavengers as active agents: facts, new aspects and future perspectives
skin protection
In cosmetics as well as in medicine active agents against free radicals have ranked among the top-rated substances for quite some years. Every now and then there are new substances on the market which are even more effective in scavenging free radicals. How do radicals come into being, what are...
more...
Under close scrutiny - phytohormones
anti-aging
Hormones control our bodily functions throughout our entire life. They also have effects on our skin. As hormones have a systemic influence though, they are not allowed in cosmetic products. The research for substances with hormone-like effects proved successful in plants. Detailed information on...
more...
Enzymes - the silent brownies
special actives
Enzymes are substances of very special kind. They are the brownies in the metabolism of live organisms as they compose or degrade the substances involved. They take care of almost every single chemical transformation, silently, ecologically and without leaving any waste products. They can also be...
more...
Irritated skin - skin in a state of turmoil
problem skin
Irritation - what exactly does it mean? In general the term is explained as an overreaction to an insignificant or even trivial incident. Now, what applies for the area of mental balance may also be extended to the skin. Skin irritations, their causes as well as their treatment will be discussed in...
more...
Actinic keratoses - an endemic disease?
problem skin
Millions of vacationers deliberately expose themselves to excessive UV radiation. As a result, the risk of UV-related skin damage is rapidly increasing. Sun worshippers thus have to expect an increased risk for actinic keratoses (a carcinoma in situ). Most recent estimates prove that about 8 million...
more...
Mixed skin - a skin with two different faces
problem skin
In the daily practice frequently questions come up regarding the appropriate cosmetic treatment. Mixed skin: What does it actually mean? How can we receive adequate measuring results and what is the best care - all these questions are answered in the following.
more...
Corneotherapy and anti-aging
anti-aging
Corneotherapy was coined in the nineties by Professor A.M. Kligman. In his studies he proved that a skin therapy with moisturizers already could achieve clinical effects. Experience has shown now that corneotherapy can also protect the skin against premature aging.
more...
Reddened Skin - what may cause the symptom?
problem skin
Everyone cares for even skin as it is a symbol for health and cleanness. It's quite a nuisance when red spots appear and even more annoying if their cause is unknown. The following information provides some assistance to detect the causes.
more...
Vitamin K for a healthy and beautiful skin
special actives
Vitamin K is an essential nutrient for the human body. Vitamin K belongs to the fat-soluble vitamins and naturally occurs in two different types, i.e. vitamin K1 and vitamin K2. Vitamin K1 is mainly assimilated through vegetable food whereas vitamin K2 is formed by intestinal bacteria as e.g....
more...
Olibanum - embedded in nanoparticles
special actives
A substantial increase of inflammatory skin diseases such as neurodermatitis, psoriasis and actinic keratoses but also skin cancer has been observed worldwide. The serious barrier and cornification disorders involved can now be treated with frankincense, the lately discovered cosmetic agent.
more...
Self mixed
base creams
KOKO now offers foundations which are individually adapted to customers' needs. The modular system is easy to handle and does not require any specific practical knowledge.
more...
Dermatological cosmetics - linking cosmetics and medicine
products
The term "dermatological cosmetics" already alludes to the combination of dermatology and skin care. Dermatological cosmetics, what does it actually mean? What is the difference between dermatological and conventional cosmetics? Based on a present-day example the concepts of dermatological skin and...
more...
Water and water - just not the same things: water qualities
ingredients
When discussing active agents in cosmetics, very often the most important one is ignored: water! Professor Albert M. Kligman even speaks of "water dermatology" as an essential element of corneotherapy. In fact the quality of the water significantly influences the skin condition in a positive as well...
more...
Treatment of actinic keratoses with a new olibanum extract
special actives
Millions of vacationers deliberately expose themselves to excessive UV radiation. As a result, the risk of UV-related skin damage is rapidly increasing. Sun worshippers thus have to expect an increased risk for actinic keratoses (a carcinoma in situ). Most recent estimates prove that about 8 million...
more...
High tech agents: new - improved - and more effective?
special actives
In skin care products, the essential sales argument on the manufacturers' side and the decisive factor on the part of consumers to buy the product are the active agents contained. Accordingly, the cosmetic industry is continually researching for new and better agents. What are their specific...
more...
Preservatives
ingredients
Preservatives are added to cosmetics in order to prevent product deterioration and combined with it to avoid any possible health risks involved for the consumer. In the following you will be informed about products which particularly require these additives, about the basics of preservatives and...
more...
History and current aspects of corneotherapy1)
problem skin
The term corneotherapy was coined by A. Kligman. A persistent corneotherapeutic treatment of the disturbed homeostasis as the characteristic feature of atopic dermatitis with appropriate skin care substances may achieve substantial clinical effects. In summary, it can be said that corneotherapy aims...
more...
Skin care for the neurodermitic skin - supporting the skin barrier
problem skin
Dehydrated skin and a high transepidermal water loss (TEWL) are characteristic symptoms of the neurodermitic skin. Especially during the winter season an adequate skin care accompanying the treatment and above all its specific formulation is an important issue.
more...
Base creams for the prevention and treatment of atopic dermatitis
base creams
more...
Lipophilic substances - oils and lipids in cosmetic products
ingredients
Although they apparently fail to show any spectacular effects, oils and lipids belong to the most important ingredients in cosmetic products. From the corneotherapeutic point of view they are right in the focus of current interest: selectively applied they help to regenerate damaged skin.
more...
Skin analysis - customer interview to complement measurements
skin diagnosis
While subjectively rating a cosmetic product the human brain processes a multitude of sensory stimuli. Though, subjective ratings and objective skin analyses taken by measuring devices are not always identical.
more...
Corneotherapy - ...more than just a surface application
special actives
Experience shows that besides their influence on the release of active agents base creams can have substantial effects of their own.
more...
Cornification disorders - the adequate skin care
problem skin
Keratoses of the skin are common public diseases. As a result, also cosmeticians are frequently faced with questions regarding the care of the affected skin. In the following, you will find interesting information on active agents, cream bases as well as cleansing and skin care products for these...
more...
Shelf life and preservation
ingredients
Along with the latest amendment of the German Cosmetic Decree (KVO) a new regulation becomes effective. Products with a shelf life of more than 30 months or more have to be labeled with the symbol of an open jar together with the date indicating how long the product may be safely used after opening....
more...
Skin cleansing - selecting the appropriate product
products
Skin cleansing preparations range among the essential skin caring products. They are part of the daily hygiene and a prerequisite for further skin care measures. Hence, there is a great variety of different preparations and applications. The following overview offers assistance in selecting the...
more...
Oleogels - what non-aqueous products can accomplish
products
Today's skin care products mainly are emulsion-based which means that they contain water and an oil respectively lipid phase. In addition there are still products with only an oil phase. Oils but also oleogels belong to this group. They are primarily recommended for problem skins and therefore used...
more...
Concentrated agents: sera and ampoules
products
Quick results, problem solutions, intensive care... these are the keywords connected with sera, ampoules and active agent concentrates to be applied either directly or in form of masks, packs or other special treatments in the beauty institutes.
more...
Whitening - lightening the skin tone
products
Pigmentation marks, freckles and reddened skin are frequently felt as a nuisance. As only very few individuals however are endowed with an even skin tone, so called whitening products become increasingly popular.
more...
Perspiration and body odor - keeping the emotional smell under control
products
(Excessive) Perspiration together with the possibly developing body odor may be part of sporting activities, in company however it can be embarrassing. The cosmetic industry offers a wide range of products with antiperspirant and highly effective deodorant properties.
more...
Emulsifiers enable mixtures
ingredients
Emulsifiers are indispensable wherever lipids, oils and waxes are mixed with hydrophilic media with the objective of obtaining a stable mixture over a certain period of time. They are, among others components of food and cleaning agents, lubricants and cosmetics.
more...
Ingredients - objective information appreciated
ingredients
There is in-depth coverage on spectacular active agents in cosmetics. By contrast, base substances and additives are rather found in small print, though they give detailed information on tolerance and long-term effects of the product.
more...
Specific active agents and bases in corneotherapy
special actives
The term corneotherapy was coined in the late nineties1) by Professor Albert M. Kligman. The basic idea of corneotherapy is that topically applied substances as e.g. moisturizers and lipids influence the biochemistry and physics in the horny layer as well as subsequent processes in deeper skin...
more...
Preservatives - germs et al. under control
ingredients
Microbiological stability is a must for cosmetic products. Consequently preservatives are among the essential additives in cosmetics. They protect the products against microorganisms during the manufacturing process as well as during storage and application and they also are the deciding factor for...
more...
Additives in cosmetic products
ingredients
Besides the lipid substances for skin caring purposes and the lipid and water soluble active agents the INCI declaration of a cosmetic product generally lists a variety of further ingredients. They may be categorized with the term "additives" and have various functions.
more...
Skin barrier disorders - preventive measures
problem skin
Skin barrier disorders are a widely spread phenomenon today. Most frequently the symptoms are dry and sensitive skin and serious cases of skin disorders are neurodermatitis, psoriasis and cornification disorders in general.
more...
Active agents - the effective skin care: lipids, the basic elements
ingredients
Lipids play an important role among cosmetic active agents for the skin care. In terms of quantity, they are the most frequently used ingredients of cosmetics besides water. Seen from the historic perspective, skin care actually began with the use of lipids. Depending on geographical regions and...
more...
Active agents, the effective skin care - vitamins, oils & more
ingredients
From A like allantoin to Z like zinc. There is a multitude of active agents on the market either as substances to be used for cosmetics or substances contained in cosmetics. Effects as well as efficacy depend on various factors which will be described in detail in the following article.
more...
Active agents: liposomes, nanoparticles & co
special actives
Life can only exist in an atmosphere which provides protection against outside influences. Thus, monocellular living organisms are protected by cell membranes whereas multicellular organisms are provided with an exterior skin whose outermost layer, the epidermis also has a membrane-like structure...
more...
Acne - prevention and care
problem skin
Acne is one of the most frequent skin problems beauty institutes are confronted with. Acne customers and above all the younger generation among them often go through a personal ordeal and generally have high expectations of a cosmetic treatment.
more...
Active agents, the effective skin care - smoothing the skin and providing overall protection
ingredients
Active agents are a favorite subject of discussions and an important topic of many publications. Above all, the advertising material provides abundant printed information. However, what are the specific features of active agents, how do they work and what are their advantages and disadvantages? All...
more...
Essential fatty acids - cosmetic from inside and outside
problem skin
Our body depends on numerous substances which have to be replenished with our daily nutrition. Certain fatty acids are among these essential substances. Deficiencies have a detrimental effect for the human organism and skin.
more...
Skin analysis - with the support of modern instruments
skin diagnosis
The skin analysis as a main component of the cosmetic treatment forms the basis for successful skin-specific concepts. A large supply of different instruments may facilitate the skin diagnosis. However, what are the specific performance features of these instruments?
more...
Re-energizers: lotions - the speedy skin care
products
Lotions are speedy re-energizers for the skin. Especially when extended parts of the skin require a fast and evenly spreading care they are the best alternative. Nevertheless, lotions are not really a "lightweight" solution.
more...
Therapy and wellness in the bathtub
products
Bathing and balneological products already have a long tradition and still enjoy great popularity. Moreover: even in today's shower age, the wide range and the application of balneological products is still on the rise.
more...
Regeneration - the potentials of cosmetic products
anti-aging
In general usage, the term regeneration already is more or less identified with a magic formula against skin aging. Accordingly, there is a large variety of different prescriptions in form of products and treatments on the market. Quite evidently, the aging process of the skin cannot be stopped;...
more...
Strong effects - phospholipids in cosmetics
special actives
Phospholipids are indispensable for the live organism and play an essential role for both health and nutrition due to a great variety of different functions. They also prove to be perfect base substances for cosmetic products.
more...
INCI - Declaration
ingredients
The ingredients of cosmetic products are declared in accordance with INCI standards. Knowing how to read the INCI provides information on the ingredients and gives important clues whether the particular customer can tolerate certain products or whether the cosmetics contain substances which should...
more...
Psoriasis - the appropriate care
problem skin
Psoriasis is a partially hereditary skin condition with intermittent attacks which may be triggered by additional environmental or nutritional factors or by mental stress. An appropriate skin care may relieve its symptoms.
more...
Free from preservatives
ingredients
 
more...
Energizers - masks and packs
products
Masks or packs are essential elements of a large variety of cosmetic treatments. Unfortunately, it frequently falls into oblivion that these products in fact are some sort of quick-change artists. By adding different active agent concentrates and base creams, they are able to adapt to the specific...
more...
Universal base creams with membrane structure for skin care, skin protection and dermatics
base creams
Although the market offers a generous supply of finished products, base creams still play an essential role in pharmaceutical preparations for the individual dermatological treatment. On the contrary: symptoms of sensitive skin, neurodermatitis and a series of other skin problems which altogether...
more...
Masks - the speedy refreshers
products
Clients of beauty institutes prefer individual treatments showing quick and visible results. Possible solutions here are masks in combination with effective active agents.
more...
Emulsions - micro-emulsions - nano-emulsions
ingredients
Cosmetic products have a multitude of technical terms and it is difficult to keep track of it. On the other hand just a basic overview enables to infer to their practical properties. Taking a look at the microcosm of emulsions is worth the effort.
more...
Neurodermatitis - specific prevention
problem skin
Neurodermatitis is a major strain for the persons affected, above all due to the permanently dry and frequently itching skin. A well-designed skin care with appropriate products helps to reduce these symptoms.
more...
Product variety in the beauty institute
beauty institutes
Offering a wide range of different products today has become the recipe for success of the beauty institute. Not only when establishing new beauty institutes but also in general it is recommended to carefully select the products for treatment and sale.
more...
Worth knowing - the cosmetician as a consultant
beauty institutes
Specifically in cases of problem skin the cosmetician is predestined to offer comprehensive consultation on skin care and skin treatment after the skin is analyzed. Prerequisite here is detailed information on the products.
more...
Progress in occupational skin protection
skin protection
The number of occupational dermatoses is increasing although the workplace safety regarding the materials and substances used has constantly been improved. Thus, skin protection at the workplace and an effective skin care become the focal point of interest.
more...
Balneological products - application and benefits
products
Bathing is very relaxing. It soothes body and soul. And this is the reason why cultivated bathing habits, in the therapeutical field also called balneology or hydrotherapy become increasingly popular again.
more...
Encapsulated substances - the capacity of carrier systems
special actives
Liposomes and nanoparticles have a high affinity to the horny layer of the skin due to their composition. With the help of these carrier systems water and oil soluble substances can easier penetrate the skin.
more...
Instruments for skin analysis
skin diagnosis
An accurate analysis of the skin type establishes customer confidence, is the basis for a specific skin treatment and promotes the sale of skin care products. Special measuring instruments can optimize the analysis
more...
Emulsifiers - looking for alternatives
ingredients
Emulsifiers stabilize emulsions. Yet, evidence that emulsifiers may cause skin irritations is mounting. While looking for alternatives it was found out that stable creams for a variety of different applications can be produced on the basis of skin-related substances.
more...
Regeneration of the skin barrier
anti-aging
The objective of regenerating the skin is just as old as cosmetic itself. The decorative cosmetic shows how we would like to look after the regeneration. The caring cosmetic with the active agents at its disposal tries to support the regeneration to revitalize, soothe and protect the neglected,...
more...
Preventive care in the beauty institute
beauty institutes
The task of the cosmetician is not only to provide a short-term improvement of the skin but also to effectively support the prevention of skin diseases.
more...
Cosmetic dermatology - dermatological cosmetic
beauty institutes
The combination of cosmetic and dermatology offers a variety of opportunities/benefits for clients, patients and institutes/consulting rooms. The cosmetic dermatology or the dermatological cosmetic complements the fields of orthodox medicine and traditional cosmetic and extends their activity field.
more...
Ceramides - lipids with multiple assignments
ingredients
In combination with other skin components ceramides form a natural barrier in the horny layer. They prevent the dehydration of the skin. There are new products which support the skin-own formation of ceramides.
more...
Protect your skin too
skin protection
Besides all the efforts of caring for the skin of the clients, the skin protection of the cosmeticians should not be neglected. Day in, day out, the cosmetician gets into contact with the products she uses for the treatments. High-quality products are useful which also protect the skin of the...
more...
Skin care for cosmeticians - new developments in skin care
skin protection
The latest amendments in the German Cosmetic Directive (KVO) have shed some light on the ingredients of cosmetic products. As Dr. Hans Lautenschläger explained in his lecture held at the 5th Professional Training on Dermatology and Cosmetics in Munich, declarations regarding the ingredients (INCI)...
more...
Skin protection for the hands of strong men
skin protection
The acceptance of skin protection and skin care especially designed for activities in humid conditions (e.g. metal industry, construction industry, hairdressers) and workplaces where oils are used (e.g. oil industry, automotive industry, mechanical engineering) among the individuals affected is...
more...
dermaviduals - modular product systems
base creams
Dermaviduals are skin care products which are freshly prepared right on the spot in the beauty institute. This article shows how cosmeticians can prove their skin care competence by offering this individual service.
more...
Liposomes in Dermatological Preparations Part II
special actives
In Part I, some theoretical background on the structure of liposomes and their probable mechanisms of action on and in the skin were reviewed. Part II will discuss in more detail the utilization of liposomes in dermatological and cosmetic formulations. Appropriate uses are suggested, and some...
more...
Liposomes in Dermatological Preparations Part I
special actives
Liposomes or liposomal aggregation may have played a role in the formation of the first cell membrane on Earth. Immediately after the discovery of liposomes by Bangham, there was intense research in the pharmaceutical industry concerning their parenteral application, but without a decisive...
more...
Electron-microscopical Detection of Liposomes in a Skin Treatment Gel
special actives
This study is an example for the quality control of a liposomal skin care gel and shows the compatibility of liposomes based on soya phospholipids with a gel forming agent of the xanthan type. The analysis described allows imaging of liposomes in their surroundings and demonstrates that the...
more...
Comments concerning the legal framework for the use of liposomes in cosmetic preparations
special actives
Concerning cosmetics the same application criteria are valid for liposome formulations as for other comparable forms of application. The advertising claims for a deep acting liposome preparation must not be extended into the »drug« field. The argumentation becomes much simpler if highly unsaturated...
more...
The Use of Liposomes from Soya Phospholipids in Cosmetics
special actives
This article shows that on the one hand the development of the liposomes technology offers great chances for many new cosmetic products (which are very desirable from the consumer's point of view), but that on the other hand the cosmetics developer has to deal very intensively with questions of raw...
more...
 
       
 
 
 
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Revision: 31.01.2009